Homeowners and employees may inhale to dangerous levels of silica dust when cutting, drilling, grinding, or otherwise disturbing materials that contain silica. These materials and tasks are common on construction jobs. Breathing that dust can lead to serious, often fatal illnesses. Know to understand the risk factors with silica.
There are ways contractors can reduce the dust and reduce the hazard. Selecting appropriate controls, and creating a job-specific plan to eliminate or reduce silica hazards is essential for any tile removal or wood floor removal.
Black Mold May Cause Sudden Infant Death Syndrome and Miscarriage – Entrust is to an Expert
Mold & Moisture
The crawl space is the number one source for potential moisture entering your home. The moisture may be equal to gallons of water but in vapor form and not even visible. A seal tight liner kit will instantly stop the moisture in the crawl space from entering home as well as eliminating radon gas, musty odors, mildew and mold.
"The U.S. EPA states: "Molds are usually not a problem unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds produce allergens, irritants and potentially toxic substances. The key to mold control is moisture control. The mold will not grow if moisture is not present (source: EPA " A Brief Guide to Mold, Mildew and Your Home," publication #402-K-02-003)."
Eliminate the Existing Mold
To eliminate and prevent future mold growth, spray the affected areas with a mold killing and growth preventing spray, there are good products for purchase at your local building supply house.
My Take on the Problems with Bleach
The Myth Of Using Bleach To Kill Mold! Mold has a root system that actually grows into the surfaces of wood, drywall, concrete, etc..., like tree roots grow into the soil. The roots are not killed by bleach alone because the bleach does not penetrate the surface of porous materials. The bleach chemical portion sits on the surface until gassing off, killing only the mold on the surface leaving the roots intact, while the water portion of the bleach soaks into the material giving the mold roots a food source to start growing again. Think of it this way, if you were to cut a tree, plant, grass, or anything that has roots down and you water the area, you will see what you cut start to grow again. This is because the roots were not killed. The other problem with using bleach for an extended period is that if sprayed on wood and other building materials it actually starts to break down the products.
STOPPING MOLD AT THE ROOTS IS THE ONLY WAY!!!
Chlorine Bleach is NOT a registered EPA Mold Killing product!
If you think that we're just knocking bleach. Don't take our word for it! Go to http://epa.gov/mold/moldcourse/index.html and read what the EPA has to say about using bleach to kill mold. The EPA says that "The use of bleach is not recommended as a routine practice during mold clean-up" http://iaq.custhelp.com question #7.
Now you might ask: How do I kill mold if not with bleach?
Answer: Use an EPA approved and registered fungicide to kill the mold at its roots.
Mold - How to Get it Out of Your Home & Keep it Out
Before a person ever decides to search for the best mold inspection company in their area, they should first know a few facts:
1. In the author's opinion, every house on the planet has mold in it. Mold is a member of the Fungi family and exists naturally in our environment. It is airborne and enters our houses whenever a door or window is open and in numerous other ways.
2. Inside of a house, mold will not be a problem unless it has been exposed to water for more than 48-72 hours. So, if you have seen, or know of evidence of water inside your house and you suspect that it has been there for at least 48 hours, you are most certain to have harmful (toxic) mold.
3. Even if you can't see any water, it still may be lurking behind your walls, sinks, or tubs; perhaps under windows or other locations. If you can smell a musty or unpleasant odor (some in the family may detect it while others can't), you have a harmful mold problem.
4. If you or other members of your house have asthma, other respiratory problems, coughing, runny nose or eyes, headaches, or tend to feel much better when you are away from the house and worse when you are in it, you almost certainly have a mold problem.
Knowing that you likely have a mold problem but not knowing what to do next, speaks volumes in favor of hiring a professional. But which one? You could likely have several mold inspection companies to chose from on sites like Yahoo or Google; but how does a homeowner find the best one for their needs?
My advice is: First I recommend that the company specializes in mold. Not mold and/or radon, lead, air ducts, etc. Next, I recommend that they have both education and experience at least equal to or better than their competitors. While most every state requires that home inspectors be licensed, only two states require so of mold inspectors.Are they certified? This would tell you that they cared enough about their profession to acquire knowledge and training to meet standards. Experience counts. How long has the inspector been certified? How many jobs have they performed? Not just the company, but the individual inspector? Can they get references? Have they been cited by the Better Business Bureau for any deceptive, misleading, or dishonest practices?
The next criteria is critical: Are they also in the business of mold remediation or removal? If they are it could be a blatant conflict of interest. Wouldn't it be to there interest to overstate the level of mold problems and/or the amount of remediation needed if they were in line to pick up a job worth several thousands of dollars? Therefore, I recommend that you find a professional who only inspects for mold.
OK, so now how should your inspector look for and find your problem? When they are finished will they be able to tell you for certain where your mold is and why you have the problem? Isn't that how you would like to spend your money?
Testing for mold is most often done by the old fashioned method called air testing. This procedure sucks air into a machine that then traps it into a laboratory testing dish, which in turn gets sent to a laboratory for culturing. This process can take a week or more for the results. When air testing is performed, the inspector should always take one test outside of the house in order to determine a benchmark as to what mold(s) are prevalent in your area. They then will try to take as many tests inside of the house as the customer can afford. In most areas of the country, these tests cost about $100 each. Some of the problems with air testing are:
1. The more tests that are performed, the more costly the job.
2. Air testing is highly inaccurate. All it can do is to tell you what was in the air at that location at that moment in time. Results can vary widely over time and method used. Airborne fungal spore concentrations vary greatly over the course of hours, days, weeks, and seasons.
3. In colder climates when there is snow on the ground, the results of the outside test will be useless in that spore count is greatly or totally reduced. I have yet to hear that a customer was told this fact.
4. There are no numerical standards to which tests can be prepared, making interpretation difficult.
5. Even the best tests can not determine how much exposure people in the house have had in the past.
6. Fungal air tests are expensive.
7. Results are slow to receive.
8. Knowing the type of mold does not change the way that you would respond. All mold that is active, or was active, is bad mold.
Then what does represent a professional, accurate, and helpful mold inspection? The most intelligent inspections should: Find all mold. Determine the cause; i.e. Where is the water problem(s). Explain how to fix the problem(s).
This inspection requires work, experience, and knowledge. It is also labor intensive; lasting about 2 hours or more on average. It begins with an intensive investigation of the property outside of the house. It finds flaws in roofs, chimneys, gutters, downspouts, foundations, and/or landscaping. In short, anywhere and any way that water could get into the house and cause a problem. Then, moving inside the inspection closely is conducted looking throughout the house, basement, and attic for issues under windows, sinks, tubs, showers, washer and dryers. Tools such as moisture meters, hygrometers, and boroscopes should be utilized as appropriate.
Following that, in my inspections, I work with a Certified Mold Dog. Together we systematically cover every inch of the house. Dogs such as mine have the ability to detect the scent of mold in one part per trillion. Humans are limited to one part per hundred. Two university studies are known that matched dogs scenting ability versus that of machines. Dogs won easily both times. Dogs have the ability to detect the scent of mold from behind walls, floors, or ceilings where it often is found. No machine can do that. With their ability to pinpoint the location of the mold, remediation costs are reduced to a fraction of what they may have been, or eliminated entirely.
Lastly, the customer should ask for, and receive a professionally written report that captures all that was seen, found, and measured during the inspection and remediation recommendations. This is how my company, Mold Rover, Inc. operates. It is what I think the customer needs and deserves for their money.
For More Information on Dustless Wood Floor Removal
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